One of Mexico’s top resorts, Puerto Vallarta has spread well beyond the original colonial village, yet still maintains its distinctive charm. The spectacular Banderas Bay, backed by mountains blanketed in dense subtropical greenery, is the world’s second largest. Most of us know how the formerly sleepy village hit the map when Hollywood stepped in in 1962 by filming Night of the Iguana here, and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s escapades made romantic history.

What was once a cobblestoned seaside village has expanded well beyond up and down the coasts, to include miles of luxury hotels and resorts. The original downtown, known as Olas Altas, is lined with red-tiled houses now housing upscale galleries, clothing or craft stores, while the palm-lined malecon is home to lively bars and discos. Olas Altas is the best area for moderate dining and accommodations, as well as for a more authentic Mexican atmosphere. South of downtown you’ll find a newly chic area, with popular restaurants and shops.

Marina Vallarta, a self-contained commercial and residential area, includes a golf course and 450 yacht slips, and is the first of many coastal developments to the north in Nuevo Vallarta. Punta Mita, the northern limit of the bay, is home to the best surfing beaches in the area.

Snorkelers and divers flock to Mismaloya, where an underwater park surrounds the outlying rocks of Los Arcos, and where glowing phosphorescent fish light up the waters on many evenings. Deep-sea fishing is excellent here from November to May, and whale-watching is popular from December to April. Vallarta’s best swimming beaches are accessible by boat only - Yelapa, Quimixto and Playa de las Animas. The most attractive beach near downtown is Playa Conchas Chinas (Chinese Shells.) Nature lovers can enjoy exploring the foothills of the Sierra Madre on horseback, mountain bikes or on foot. Kayaking, diving and all types of watersports are offered here as well.

Aquatic activities are very popular here - try parasailing, wave runners, banana boat rides, waterskiing, ocean kayaking or scuba diving. Craft-shopping is also a pleasant pastime in Vallarta - or visit the Museo del Cuale for interesting displays on Mesoamerican culture and regional history.

A delightful time in Vallarta is the 12-day Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe in early December. Mexicans honor their patroness with lively pilgrimages, offerings and colorful processions replete with floats, music and dancing.

Irene Middleman Thomas is a Colorado-based writer for dozens of local, national and international publications and websites. She is the 2004 winner of the Pluma de Plata, the highest honor for travel journalism about Mexico.

About 4.1 million Americans reside in other countries, according to the Association of Americans Resident Overseas, with about 1 million living in Mexico and 688,000 living in Canada. If all of these residents living abroad were placed in one U.S. state, it would be the 25th most populous state in the country, the association reported. The statistics don't include travelers who are visiting briefly and who don't secure visas, and don't include members of the U.S. military. --

By Glenn Roberts Jr.