At the very tip of the Baja Peninsula, this booming area is regarded as the richest marine habitat on earth, where the warm Sea of Cortez meets the much cooler Pacific Ocean. Long renowned for its whale watching and deep sea fishing, divers in these clear aquamarine waters can swim with whales, sea lions, sharks, dolphins, enormous manta rays and groupers, while snorkelers will see immense multihued schools of an estimated 800 species of reef fish. Whale-watchers visit January through late March or early April, when an estimated 11,000 of the world’s approximate 15,000 gray whales migrate to the warm waters in the Ojo de Liebre lagoon system of the Pacific Coast to deliver their calves.

The isolated fishing camps that once catered to a handful of visitors are now surrounded by luxury hotels, emerald golf courses and elite homes dotting the twenty-mile coast around two towns - San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. San Jose del Cabo offers lush palm groves, historic charm and the romance of a colonial village, while Cabo San Lucas features more nightclubs, extensive shopping and fine dining. The Cabos stand at the confluence of the two seas, where golden cliffs plunge dramatically into the warm waters below.

San Jose, founded in 1730, is home to 40,000 who keep their town clean and prosperous. The stately Palacio Municipal on the small, shady plaza and stone and stucco 19th-century homes lining the main street belie the enormous tourism expansion burgeoning up the coastline.

Cabo San Lucas, with its low ocher-colored buildings fronting a small marina and bay, has top-notch tourist facilities but less Mexican authenticity than San Jose del Cabo. Just 30 years ago, it was a sleepy fishing village of 1,500 residents, but now is home to a permanent population of 8,500. Many North Americans retire here, and the town offers trailer parks, condominiums, a marina, many restaurants (don’t miss the famed Cabo fish tacos!,) shops, discos and cafes to cater to locals and tourists alike.  Cabo San Lucas fronts a small harbor which faces the rocky peninsula forming the “Land’s End” of Baja California. Centuries ago, the sheltered bay was a haven for treasure ships from the Orient as well as a hideaway for pirates. Nowadays, it is a shelter for cruise ships. Also here is Cabo Falso, where the Faro Viejo (old lighthouse) offers all-encompassing sea views, including seals, sea lions and whales on their way north.

Known as the ‘Marlin Capital of the World,’ Cabo’s tourists reel in their share of the millions of huge gamefish caught here each year. Fishing trips cost at least $200 per day, but visitors can delight in swimming, snorkeling and sunning on the many beautiful beaches of the 19-mile Los Cabos Corridor highway, linking the two towns. Many beaches in the area are too dangerous for swimming, due to the fierce undertows and currents. Try Playa del Medrano for excellent safe swimming and water sports, or Playa del Amor, Playa Santa Maria and Playa del Chileno for superb snorkeling. After a swim at the Playa del Amor (Beach of Love,) you can visit the neighboring Playa del Divorcio with its dangerous currents and strong undertow. Famed El Arco or Land’s End is a short boat ride from the marina. This arch rock, seen in countless travel posters, where the tranquil Sea of Cortez meets the deep Pacific, and is home to about forty sea lions. Pelican Rock is an ideal place for snorkeling and diving, or for renting a glass-bottom boat, as it is home to enormous schools of tropical fish.

Irene Middleman Thomas is a Colorado-based writer for dozens of local, national and international publications and websites. She is the 2004 winner of the Pluma de Plata, the highest honor for travel journalism about Mexico.

About 4.1 million Americans reside in other countries, according to the Association of Americans Resident Overseas, with about 1 million living in Mexico and 688,000 living in Canada. If all of these residents living abroad were placed in one U.S. state, it would be the 25th most populous state in the country, the association reported. The statistics don't include travelers who are visiting briefly and who don't secure visas, and don't include members of the U.S. military. --

By Glenn Roberts Jr.